Amazonian returns part 3

For the last two days of my short week in French Guiana, I headed into Cayenne and stayed at the Place des Amandiers, which seemed to be a birding hotspot.  The extremely common Carib Grackles were hopping around the breakfast tables and the park opposite was full of birds, not least the rather surreal combination of Ruddy Turnstones bathing in rainwater pools alongside Yellow-hooded Blackbirds.

I also really enjoyed seeing the ever-so-cute Pied Water-Tyrant and Yellow Oriole, and the very first bird I saw on the nearby Sentier de Montabo was this Green-tailed Jacamar!

All too soon, it was time to head back to Belém, where I had a couple more days before heading home and discovered a Reddish Hermit lek, which was a wonderful way to end my two weeks back in the amazing Amazon.

Amazonian returns part 2

From Belém, I took the weekly flight to Cayenne, French Guiana.  Trying to get around there without a car was almost impossible, especially since the country's only bird guide was unavailable at the time, but I found the lovely little Amazone Nature Lodge, slap bang in the jungle, who were able to offer a package including transfer from and back to the airport.  This is more of a research station with little information available about what I could see there, so I was pleased to discover a lek of White-bearded Manakins, of which I'd only ever seen females before.

I had a lovely cabin with a view of nesting Red-rumped Caciques and Orange-winged Parrot, and spent a lot of time just sitting on the veranda soaking up the sights and sounds.  Bathroom visits were a bit of an adventure since it was located in a little outhouse, complete with a Giant Broad-headed Treefrog living under the rim of my toilet! 

A Black Curassow was in the big tree next to my cabin one morning and walks in the forest provided brief views of both Harpy Eagle and the ultra-shy Grey-winged Trumpeter, which I even managed to photograph through the foliage.  It took me until my final morning to finally see a stunning Golden-headed Manakin, one of my main targets, and I noticed this beautiful Thereus sp right in the lodge clearing just as I was about to leave.

My stay there was far too short and the cuisine was phenomenal so I'd love to go back and can strongly recommend staying there should you ever visit French Guiana.

Amazonian returns part 1

I had a couple of weeks off at the end January and returned to the Amazon for the first time since 2018!  I started in Belém, where a fellow guide helped me to tick off a few species I'd only glimpsed or heard before such as the localised Willis's Antbird, Black-tailed Tityra and Amazonian Grosbeak.  Our rarest sighting by far was this female Belém Woodpecker, which has a very restricted range, but it was just as nice to see some of the commoner species such as toucans, trogons and woodcreepers again.  Most of our birding was done in a park on the outskirts of the city, where this Collins' Squirrel Monkey decided the attention we were paying it warranted a rest.

Being the rainy season, there weren't many butterflies around but a visit to the botanical garden within the city did provide us with this exquisite Spangled Cupid, a metalmark that is trying its best to look like a Lycaenid.

Having spent all of my last day scouring the various city parks to no avail for Jandaya Parakeet, I was amazed to find four of them in the airport car park before flying on to my next destination.

Smientenspektakel

Back in 2022, I stumbled across what has to be one of the greatest (and least known) natural spectacles of The Netherlands, namely the pre-migration gathering of tens of thousands of Wigeon near Gouda.  I've been meaning to go back ever since but never got round to it until last week.  It was a beautiful, spring day with my first butterflies of 2026 (a Peacock and a male Brimstone) on the wing and I could already hear the calls before I got to the largest and furthest lake, where all the birds had congregated.

The sound was phenomenal, especially whenever part of the huge raft would take flight and relocate to another part of the lake.  Just as in 2022, it was impossible to estimate the numbers involved although I did try and got to around 12,000 before giving up; it was probably more like 20,000 or even more. 
A pair of Red-necked Grebes, some Black-necked Grebes coming into breeding plumage and two, male Red-crested Pochard were nice distractions but it was difficult to take my eyes off the Wigeon show.  Turn the volume up to watch the video - sorry for the snapping of the camera but a very few Dutch birders were also there to witness the spectacle.

Geese in the mist

This week, I finally managed to return to Texel for yet another international twitch, this time for the 1st-winter Black-faced Bunting that has been there since mid-December.  Since the bird has been showing best in the mornings, I booked an overnight stay, but I still had a few hours of daylight left once I arrived and so headed straight there from the ferry.  After a two-month stay, there was nobody else around but the friendly owner of the garden told me where it is usually seen and said I was welcome to walk around his property.  After almost an hour I had more or less given up and was just about to leave when a couple from The Hague arrived, so I decided to have one more look with them and found it within 10 minutes of their arrival!  We got an excellent, close-up view but it disappeared again before we could take any pictures.  The plan was to go back again the next morning but I awoke to heavy mist and, since already I'd seen it so well, I decided to do a bicycle tour of the southern half of the island instead.  This was very atmospheric, with the calls of invisible geese and singing Skylarks echoing all around.  It took several hours for the mist to finally clear but, by the time I boarded the ferry back to the mainland, I'd seen/heard at least 71 species, including a family party of 4 Bewick's Swans, Spoonbill, Ruff, a male Hen Harrier and a hunting Merlin.

2025 review - butterflies et al

I did a bit better finding new butterflies during 2025, starting with Reverdin's Blue at a German nature reserve close to Basel.  From there, I took the train down to Barcelona for a few days, seeing Iberian Scarce Swallowtail and photographing both False Ilex Hairstreak and Spanish Gatekeeper.  My favourite spot in Berlin again turned up trumps with a repeat sighting of Large Chequered Skipper, first seen there in 2024, as well as my lifer Chestnut Heath.  Despite returning to Modane for the fourth time, my July visit there still provided another 5 lifers - Alpine Blue, Mountain Fritillary, Grison's Fritillary, Silky Ringlet and Dewy Ringlet, meaning I have now photographed over 100 species in the area!  I then got a Woodland Grayling in Fontainebleau Forest, before trying some Pyrenean butterflying near Luchon, succesfully finding three more ringlets - the local form of Yellow-spotted, a single Water, and the endemic Pyrenees Brassy.  My 15th and final new species of the year was this Astaut's Blue, the southern equivalent of Common Blue, in the Algarve.  With all this butterflying around Europe, I didn't find any new ones in Belgium, although a trip to a butterfly reserve in the province of Luxembourg did get me my lifer Dainty Damselfly.  Finally, I didn't realise it at the time, but documenting the seals in Ostend harbour, I managed to get a picture of two species together - Grey Seal and Harbour Seal.

Hawfy New Year!

Today, I finally made it to my Brussels patch of Rouge-Cloître/Roodklooster for the first time this year.  It started really well, with a Goshawk perched near the entrance being mobbed by several Magpies plus a Carrion Crow, which, at one point, divebombed it and yanked its tail!  I got several of the scarce species I hope to see there at this time of year, including Goldcrest, Firecrest and 3 Teal but the pièce de résistance were Hawfinches.  I'd already spotted one amongst a small flock of Greenfinches and was walking along the tree-lined path near the allotments when this one flew up from the ground.  I fumbled for my camera and managed to get this first shot but, after a while, it returned to the path to feed, showing ridiculously well for such a shy and secretive species.  I ended up with 41 species around the reserve, plus a Peregrine seen from the tram on my way there.